It is tight in the tuner section. The dial cord isn't to bad to restring, I would take a couple pictures before you take it apart though. I also started the process of restuffing the canned electrolytics. I'm going to start a separate thread to document that because I took a lot of pictures along the way, including how to remove the remains once you have it open. Warren - Did you replace the rubber grommets mounting the tuner sub-chassis to the main chassis as well as the ones for mounting the pushbutton assembly?
If so, where did you get them? Hi Rich, No, I did not replace mine they were in decent condition so left them alone. If they are not falling apart and still semi pliable I would not replace them myself. I you can compress them and they go back in shape they are probably good. If you want to replace I have heard you can find "O" rings sometimes at home depot that are close enough.
Also, if you cant find any you think is close enough I might have some on the donor chassis I have but of course those would be older used ones too. But if yours are falling apart these are probably in better condition. Thanks Warren - my tuner chassis grommets aren't too bad and I might re-use them. A couple of the ones for the pushbutton assembly aren't too good but I think there is one at renovatedradios. Today I started cap replacement. This is going to be a tedious process since everything is so intertwined and in many places there are many connections on one terminal.
I like to clean things up as I go so wherever I can I remove everything from a terminal, clean it up, and then re-attach everything. I didn't get too far today before I decided to stop and place an order.
I checked several resistors as I disconnected them and most are out of tolerance, such as a k that measures k and a k that measures k. So I decided to order every resistor I might need. But Digi-Key is always quick and reasonable This also includes one extra of every value. So at least I'll have everything on hand if I need to replace a resistor.
I'm also considering replacing the shielded cable that runs from pin 3 of the 7X7 tube to the. I suspect this is just plain old shielded cable, right? Or does it need to be some specific impedance? Thanks, Rich. I'm making good progress with the cap replacement. It looks like I will end up replacing all but one resistor on the main chassis.
There is one attached to the volume control that would be a little tricky to get to and it measures in tolerance so I'll probably leave it. On the tuner sub-chassis I'll probably leave them alone unless I come across one that's out of tolerance and relatively easy to get to. Now I'm going to have to decide what to do about a power transformer. The one I put in 45 years ago doesn't have a secondary for the heater circuit, plus I think it may be shot.
I haven't hooked it up to the variac and tested it yet but one of the windings reads a dead short. So I'm looking for a Philco or a Stancor P Not sure why. I checked several times for a couple of days after I sent it and didn't see a reply from you. Then didn't check for a couple of days until today. Sorry about the delay, and thanks for checking into it! This post was last modified: , AM by criageek.
Edit Reason: Spelling error. Shielded cables in this particular case do not have to be of particular impedance. Mondial Phorum Expert. Rich, be careful about replacing caps in the tuning front end chassis.
There are many caps there that should be left alone, including the precision micas in the tuned circuits. The only caps to change there are the waxed paper bypass caps. Thanks morzh! Click on the schematic thumbnail to request the schematic as a free document. Technical Specifications. Here you find models, with images and with schematics for wireless sets etc.
All listed radios etc. Collections Museums Literature. The model FM is part of the collections of the following members. Threads: 1 Posts: 2 philco: Radio-Phonograph; Greetings. While restoring my own Philco , I noticed that the original Philco Service Manual had errors in its part placement drawing, meant to help locating probing location for diagnostic. I was relying on this for capacitor replacement and have bad surprises
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